Mike's 1993 Dodge Cummins Truck Blog

This side was very easy to change out the quad seal.

The other side was ok too. Here it is apart.

Sorry for the blurry pic. I tried to show the scratches left by the last gorilla to rebuild this pump.

The quad seal goes in nicely. Due to spring pressure make sure to evenly lower the cover with the screws.

This is the second worn oring I’ve found so far. See the cracks along the edge. The first was the governor shaft oring that caused the fuel leakage. This brass plug screws into the KSB valve. The 3 orings for the inside of the KSB valve do not come in the kit according my local pump shop. So I ordered them. The quad seals between the KSB valve and the pump do come in the kit.

Cover the threads with tape to protect the oring from getting abraded. Use STP to lube the oring before install onto the brass plug.

The orings were replaced. That large oring was brittle. Both the brass plug and the solenoid were installed with new orings back into the KSB housing.

I felt the brass plug give suddenly as I was screwing it in. I took it back out to find that the oring had been split. I had used mineral oil for a lube. After that multiple sources told me to use STP Oil Treatment. That stuff turns out to be far more slippery than mineral oil. The solenoid was simply removed and given a new oring, lubed with STP, and re-installed. Sorry I didn’t get a pic of that.

Using an earplug to keep dirt out of the empty bore.

Marking the solenoid to make sure I don’t over tighten it when it goes back in. The mark I made lines up with the parting line of the casting.

It took a 15/16″ wrench to take it out. I didn’t have any metric wrenches this large. It fit perfectly.

I know these head bolts are tight, but c’mon!! The end of the torx bit snapped off flush with the head.

Do I need to even comment on the tool quality here !!!!!! A magnet pulled out the broken torx tip. The shorter bit got the bolts loose just fine!!

Here is the control valve getting ready to have the retaining clip pressed into the bore.

After trying to tap it into place using the handle of a screw driver, it became clear that if the clip flew across the room I would never see it again. So this is what I used. My largest pair of channel locks with duct tape on the jaws.

Here is how it came out. Dead flush with the bottom of the valve. Just like the pump shop guy told me to do. I shook the valve back and forth and it rattled. I could also see a gap between the piston and the clip. Since the chamfer at the bottom of the bore takes up about 25% of the clips length, I though it would be a better idea to drive it in a little further.

I used the tip of a philips screwdriver to move the clip in more. I just tapped the handle of the philips screwdriver with a wrench. It took very little force. If you look closely I overshot and went past the chamfer a bit. The piston and spring no longer rattle. I tried to pull the clip out a bit more but could not do it. We’ll see how it runs.