Mike's 1993 Dodge Cummins Truck Blog

I installed new orings as soon as I got the control valve apart. That way I didn’t mix up any orings with other assemblies.

This control valve head takes only a 10mm wrench. It was very tight. So I had to use some leverage to get it free.

Here are all 4 o-rings on the control valve. This also shows the orientation of the parts. The governor shaft seal is installed but is still waiting for it’s washer and jam nut.

Control valve with o-rings removed without adding any scratches.

The control valve had 3 parts loose when I took it out of the pump body. In this pic I installed the spring and piston into the control valve. The only thing remaining was this clip. It seems like it would be a press fit.

I hope this is how the control valve parts go back together. I used a magnet to pull them out of the bore the control valve screws into.

No place for the spring and piston to be held in the cavity that they came out of. It must mean that the parts are held in the control valve with the circular clip.

Under this governor shaft nut, is the leak that started this whole project. The o-ring was brittle. When I took it off of the governor shaft, it was stiff and then it cracked. I got the nut loose. The shaft itself was 2.6 turns out from being fully seated. One of the forums says that it should be bottomed.

Somewhere I found a post that showed a tool ground from a flat blade screw driver that will remove the front seal. I just wish I knew which site.

Here is another tool ground from a screwdriver. Here is the site that it came from.

The engine tag from Cummins. The engine number is required for ordering parts.

Here is the cheap obstruction wrench I picked up from Harbor Freight. Worked fine for removing the 3 mounting nuts that hold the pump to the housing.

Here is one of two mounting nuts that needs this wrench. Also don’t forget to plug the fuel line so dirt does not fall in.

Notice the towel tucked into the opening to keep the nut and washer from falling into the housing. It also keeps dirt out that falls from so much activity in the area.

For the very last couple of turns when removing the injection pump to gear nut, I used this telescoping magnet. Worked great!

Removing the washer with a magnet made it very easy. It’s recessed a bit.

I used my steering wheel puller to remove the gear from the pump. The gear is only freed from the shaft but stays in the housing.

Here the fuel lines from the rear of the injection pump are layed down out of the way so the pump can be removed.

No matching mark on the pump flange. You can see the one on the housing.

I originally forgot to remove this fuel fitting as I was trying to pull the pump out.

Always take out the tab and re-tighten the shaft lock down screw. It keeps the shaft from rotating while working on the pump.

I marked the woodruff key location on the housing with 2 scratch marks. This has to be done if the engine is not at top dead center. The internals of the pump have to be aligned to this key during the resealing process.