Mike's 1993 Dodge Cummins Truck Blog

Here is the solenoid located in the head.

Here is the solenoid taken out of the head and disassembled from. It got a new oring and re-installed.

Take a modified 6 point socket and remove the 3 point plug on the head. There is an oring on that plug that needs to be replaced. Removing the plug is much easier if the plate mounted to the head is clamped into a vice. That plug is in there very tight.

Here is the oring on the plug.

There are how the screws are located holding the rear bracket onto the pump head. Note the far left torx screw with the thick head. It’s also much longer. It can only go in that one position.

Loosen the screws evenly as there is spring force only against the 2 screws by the solenoid. At some point the head won’t rise up any more and you have to gently, evenly pry it up. Then keep unscrewing it.

As soon as all of the screws are loosened, remove the bracket and both of it’s allen screws, then put the white port cover back on to keep dirt out of the pump.

Then carefully lift the head off. Beware that there is a shaft that wants to come out with the head. Keep it all in the pump as you pull the head off. Don’t lose track of how the shaft is oriented either. It had a fuel delivery hole in what looks like a woodruff key slot. There is another slot like it on the other side without fuel delivery hole. This cannot be reversed or your engine won’t start.

This is how the body should look just after you remove the head.

It’s important to mark the kill lever so it indexes back to it’s original position. I marked the center of the stud and the lever as well.

The arm will pop off because the spring is acting on it. So be careful.

Remove the spring and the shim above the oring.

Then dig out the oring carefully. Install a new oring and then reassemble everything.

Push the new oring into it’s recess with a socket.

Here is the orign fully seated.

Add the washer back on top of the oring.

The fuel screw gets removed, a new oring added, and then reinstalled in this step.

Yet another warranty cover. This time it’s over the fuel delivery screw. More fun!!

I used the Xcelite 1/8″ screw driver to pry out on this cover. It finally took the large dikes to cut it off. There is an oring and a crimp on the shaft.

The shaft is left damaged from the crimp being on here so tight. Jim Lane at Dieseltruckresource.com wondered why these screws were damaged like this. Here is why.

Here is the tab that shows this pump is dead stock. The nut was very tight. When I got it off with an impact, the tab sheared off.

This screw is super important to get back into position. .716″.

This is how I actually took the measurement.

Here is the screw removed. I used tape to keep the threads from messing up the oring. Soda or shake straws cut to length work great too.

Oring in home position without a scratch. Remove the tape. Reinstall the fuel screw, set it’s height, and tighten the jam nut.