With the pump shaft removed, it’s easier to work out the front seal. I tried removing the front seal with the pump shaft still installed. The seal removing tool just wouldn’t work. I’ve had good luck with it before. At least this way, the pump shaft is removed so it can’t be gouged or scratched trying to take out the seal.
Putting the pump body in a vice helped this operation a lot!! There is a lot of rubber behind the metal of the seal. So I had to push very hard with the screw driver to get a good bite on the metal. It pried right out.
Make sure you take pictures along the way. Lots of them.
Remove springs and their rods/washers. Take out the collar that I’m holding here, and then remove the plunger shaft which is still installed.
Here is the cam plate. Reach in with a magnet and pull it out.
Here is the cam plate.
Remove the rollers and their beveled washers. Note that the beveled washers are placed toward the outside of the rollers.
Rollers removed. At the 3 o’clock position there is a black clip snapped over a pin.
Remove the clip carefully with a flat bladed screw driver and a magnet or it will fly across the room as soon as you pry on it!!!
Remove the pin with a magnet that was covered by the clip.
The pin has a head on it.
Pull the large pin sideways as far as it will go.
The magnet is used to then pull this drive assembly up some.
Then the driven assembly can be removed. Don’t let the large pin fall on the floor.
Make 2 marks on the nose of the pump where your key is located. That way it will match the location of the key way on the gear back on the engine. Remove the large woodruff key.
I have used fine tiped dikes for years. They allow you to grab the key. They also provide nice leverage to remove the key. Note that genuine Cummins woodruff keys have dimple on the side of the key that makes the key fit tight so it won’t fall of the shaft when re-installing the pump onto the motor.
Take the magnet and pull up on the pump shaft. It will slide right out only if the woodruff key is out. Notice the large thrust washer and a small key.
Keep the pump shaft clean and safe. There was a slight varnish buildup where the seal rides on my pump shaft. I used my finger nails with a paper towel in between to remove the varnish. The sealing surface has to stay polished. Do not scratch or file it.
All that is left are the pump vanes. In front of them is the shaft seal. I didn’t remove the pump vanes since the inside of the pump was sterile when I took it apart.
Here is the solenoid located in the head.
Here is the solenoid taken out of the head and disassembled from. It got a new oring and re-installed.
Take a modified 6 point socket and remove the 3 point plug on the head. There is an oring on that plug that needs to be replaced. Removing the plug is much easier if the plate mounted to the head is clamped into a vice. That plug is in there very tight.
Here is the oring on the plug.
There are how the screws are located holding the rear bracket onto the pump head. Note the far left torx screw with the thick head. It’s also much longer. It can only go in that one position.
Loosen the screws evenly as there is spring force only against the 2 screws by the solenoid. At some point the head won’t rise up any more and you have to gently, evenly pry it up. Then keep unscrewing it.
As soon as all of the screws are loosened, remove the bracket and both of it’s allen screws, then put the white port cover back on to keep dirt out of the pump.
Then carefully lift the head off. Beware that there is a shaft that wants to come out with the head. Keep it all in the pump as you pull the head off. Don’t lose track of how the shaft is oriented either. It had a fuel delivery hole in what looks like a woodruff key slot. There is another slot like it on the other side without fuel delivery hole. This cannot be reversed or your engine won’t start.
This is how the body should look just after you remove the head.
