October 2011


As you loosen this jam nut, make sure the governor shaft with the allen socket in it, does not rotate. Once you carefully have removed the jam nut. Screw the governor shaft all of the way in until it bottoms, counting the number of turns as you go. Write that down!!!

I modified a 1/2″ deep socket to remove the 3 point bolts. Only 3 of the flats in this socket need to be ground into an arc shape.

This black governor linkage needs to be removed by taking out the two 3 point screws on each side of the pump housing with the modified 1/2″ socket.

The governor linkage, twists slightly, then drops straight down into the pump to be removed out of the back. Be careful, as now the governor parts will be to fall out.

Look very carefully how the governor is assembled. Take pictures here. That black tube slides onto this end of the governor shaft, then sits on top of a thrust washer. The thrust washer is blue in this pic, but it’s just polished steel. The thrust washer fits into the groove on all 4 feet. The weights are usually folded inward. I moved them out to take the pic.

Than take everything out of the governor and place it somewhere clean and safe. Notice the 2 timing marks on the perimeter of the governor housing at 9:00 and 3:00. I could find no reference on the web to see if they were required to be aligned with something. The mating gear did not have any marks on it either.

Once the governor linkage is out, keep an eye on this thrust washer and shim between the governor housing and the pump housing. The governor shaft is protruding on the right of this pic.

Unscrew the governor shaft then pull it out slowly. Notice the order of these 2 washers. One has a radiused edge that has to go up against the pump body.

See on the far left the shape of the shim that was taken out. That will be a reminder that it goes up against the pump body, then the round washer would go next during reassembly.

Find the large pin and place it like this on this cast part.

Carefully lower it in place. I liked using a magnet.

Slide the large pin over into to it’s oval shaped hole.

Line the large pin up so it’s hole is straight up. Take the small pin with a magnet and place it into the hole on the large pin.

Place the black clip over the small pin with a magnet.

Place the 4 roler assemblies back into their saddles. Make sure the curved black washer is to the outside of each roller assembly. The cross disc and cam plate go in next.

Drop this cross disc onto the 2 fingers down by the rollers. It can fit in any position. This pic is borrowed from 1stgen545’s rebuild thread.

The cam plate has matching fingers that go into the remaining recesses on the cross disc. This pic is borrowed from 1stgen545’s rebuild thread.

See the round pin that is just off center at about the 2:00 position on the cam plate? That has to be facing to the same side as the large key in the front of the pump shaft.

Here is the cam plate installed. The pin that is off center at the 3:00 position has to face the key on the pump shaft. This pic is borrowed from 1stgen545’s rebuild thread.

See the slot in the bottom of the plunger shaft at about the 8:30 position? That engages the round pin on top of the cam plate. That hardened flat washer goes in between them. Use vaseline to hold the washer in place to either the plunger shaft or to the cam plate. Either way, the vaseline will hold it in place during assembly. This pic is borrowed from 1stgen545’s rebuild thread.

The arrow is pointing at the fuel hole that has to be aligned to the key on the pump shaft. This hole can be lined up with the key or 180 degrees out. Make sure it’s lined up. This hole is in what looks like a key way. There is one on the other side as well. The side with the hole gets lined up with the key on the very front of the pump shaft. Please ignore that the small springs are in this pic as it is a disassembly pic.

Drop the plunger shaft on top of the cam plate with the pin and slot engaging. Also add the 2 large springs and their small shafts to the top of each spring.

Lube the oring with STP oil treatment. Roll it around the head using a round shaft such as a screw driver. This oring needs to not get any abrasions or cuts in it to make a good seal.

Prep the head. Add a ball of vaseline to one end of each of the small springs. Place them into the pump head.

Notice that they will stay quite well.

This side of the collar goes down first.

This side of the collar with the shoulder and the shiny surface goes up. Note that the hole on the left side engages a ball on the governor assembly. Put vaseline into that hole. Note the ball just above my index finger to the left of the shaft.

Install the collar onto the plunger shaft. Slide it down. Tilt the shaft over a bit and engage the ball into the hole. The vaseline will help hold it together during assembly.

The head is ready to flip over and be installed onto the pump body.

Be careful that you use STP oil treatment on this oring. Otherwise it will get damaged like this one did when I used mineral oil. Lay the bracket onto the pump. Gently and evenly tighten all of the 4 corner screws that holds the head on. Before those 4 screws are tight, snug up the 2 allens that hold the bracket on. Then tighten them all up.

Not many parts to the pump shaft.

Notice how the 2 key ways line up on the same side of the shaft? A few more parts like the cam plate and the plunger also align to these keys. The 2 rubber dampers just fall out when you lift the gear up the shaft.

Here is how to put the rubber dampers back in place. Lube them up. Then push them in one end first. Then just push the other end in.

Use vaseline to hold the small key in place. Do no put the large key in until much later.

The small key engages that key way at about the 7:30 position.

Here is how the pump shaft looks as it’s being dropped into position. The lower end of the key is pushed in slightly so it will engage the keyway much easier as the the pump shaft is slid into position.

Here is the pump shaft in it’s correct position. That vertical oval slot in the back ground, has a round hole in the center of it that is out of focus. That hole needs to be centered so the large pin can be put back in.

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