The cordless drill on low range did a great job of spinning the oil pump in order to prime the engine !! Used a piece of rod with .160″ thick flat blade ground onto one end, that fit into the pump. As you can see the as the rocker arms filled up with oil, the air was purged from the engine oil galleries.
Had to get the stuck on oil filter off before the oil pump priming took place. Made an oil filter removal strap from a cheap 5/8″ deep socket and a piece of ratchet strap material. Cut a slot in the socket to allow the strap material to slide into it.
Had to modify a couple of sockets so that the rear most head bolt could be reached with a torque wrench. It worked !! I used a 5/8 spark plug socket and a 3/4 socket to drive it with. Both were shortened with a band saw. All of this ensured the rear bolt could be fully torqued to 110 ft-lbs, along with the rest of the head bolts. 2 bolts required thread sealant, so they only get 100 ft-lbs of torque.
Some tips for an easier Jeep 4.0 cylinder head install. Left the power steering pump off to gain some room while dropping the head & manifolds back on the engine. Bought a re-manufactured power steering pump instead of repairing the leaking one.
Not thrilled to find this power steering pump leaking. But it has to be fixed anyway. Now is the easiest time to make the repair since the intake manifold is out, it leaves a lot of room to get this distraction fixed !!
Had to use a crowsfoot to reach the center manifold bolt. After tightening down all of the manifold bolts, it’s clear to me now that assembling the head and manifolds off of the engine is far easier and more accurate.