The cooling issue is now cured on our ’88 xj 4.0, thanks to the new fan clutch. Pulled the same pass at full throttle much of the time, with a passenger, 120lbs worth of batteries, and the AC was running full blast. Don’t forget the new over sized fan clutch. Outside temp was 85F, which is 25 degrees higher than the last time I charged this pass, with the temp gauge hitting the red. The temp gauge this time hit about one needle tip width past 210. Didn’t have the mt2500 along for an exact number. Cooled right down on the other side of the pass. The old girl did great under full load !!!
Any of you manual transmission Jeep guys understand how a throw out bearing keeps from spinning the rear half of the bearing each time you press the clutch pedal ? Renix TO bearings are held in place with 2 metal fingers. The post renix xj’s are held in place with 2 wire clips. Both are very wimpy. But yet they seem to hold ok. Although my ’86 xj metal fingers, one is trashed. Can’t find a replacement release arm anywhere.
Clutch disc had about 25% material left on it. Pressure plate was fine. Flywheel looks good. The throw out bearing is broken and damaged like you can’t believe !!! The 2 spring clips that hold the throw out bearing to the pivot arm were no longer doing their job and were destroyed. Not sure if it matters, but the clutch disc says ‘made in china’ on it. Most of the bolts holding the trans to the engine were either, missing, the wrong diameter, far too long, or missing 😉 .
Rubber Fuel Lined Replaced, 1988 Jeep XJ 4.0 –
After replacing both rubber fuel lines coming out of the tank, I thought they should be tie wrapped up and out of the way. The bonus ended up being that the noise from the fuel pump went way down. I could feel the pulsing from the pump in the rubber line, and it was significant. So the old ones must have been lightly resting against the sheet metal back there and resonating whenever the pump was running. I’d say at least a 50% reduction in fuel pump noise.
1988 XJ 4.0, auto.
There are 2 brake pedal switches. The switch with the brown connector is for the brakes. The white switch is for the torque converter lock up and cruise control.
The white switch looks like it has threads on it that need adjusting. All I did was push the switch in until it bottomed out on the brake pedal arm. It went click, click. You can use an ohm meter to see if the switch is changing from closed to open or the other way around depending on the year of your jeep. I used the mt2500 scanner as it says weather the brake pedal is being pushed or not.
The torque converter stayed locked up all the way down to 1100 rpm. That will help with fuel economy. It works in 4th (OD) or 3rd gear. Letting all of the way off the throttle or adding a lot of throttle will unlock the torque converter. It will automatically lock up if nothing prevents it from doing so.