Masking tape needs to cover the tip of the upper roof panel so glue does not get all over it when joining the wall and roof assemblies.

Here is an extended section of the K-Hinge that allows the roof panels to be hinged on the outer edge of the wall, but tilt inward. You can see there is a blue tint to the stitching. That blue is from the super fine tipped sharpie I used to draw the parallel pair of lines that are one inch apart. The lower piece of canvas is 9 inches wide versus the standard 8 inches. The upper piece of canvas is 7 inches wide compared to the standard 6 inches. The gap in the middle is 1 inch wide.

The wood block is under an inch in height. But it keeps the panels separated so that the 1 inch of hinge material between panels does not get bound up during the gluing process. I folded back and glued the 1 inch wide gap material onto itself.

Here is the height of the wood blocks.

The 7/8 inch wood blocks allow the 1 inch tall hinge material to compress and bow just a bit. This was not an issue at all during assembly.

Here is the finished roof and wall assembly with the 3 wooden blocks acting as spacers. This is the first of this type of K-Hinge that I have made. Two more panels like this need to be finished. Then all of the wall panels need to get their lower edges covered and the anchors installed.

Here is another door idea that I really like. It makes for a 4 foot or a 6 foot tall entrance, depending whether both hatches are used or not.

We had solid success setting up the roof only portion of the HexaYurt at Bill’s house.

Here is the completed roof.

This is the roof with one of 3 hatches open for ventilation.

Here I am looking out of the roof.

All of the upper and lower roof panels have been hinged together and have had the zippers added to their sides. Tomorrow we are going to see how all of the roof panels are going to zip together without the walls. It will be a good dry run. I bought several more yards of canvas and a few more 28oz tubes of Liquid Nails. There are many 8 foot long hinges to be glued to these panels in the future.

Here are the 3 pairs of roof panels with side zippers finished. It’s nice to have the R & D on this part of the structure done as the building can go much faster. The upper and lower roof panels need to be hinged together like I had done this past Monday. I’ll try and go get some more canvas to make the hinges with today.

Now that most of the engineering is over, I can catch up since each task is now repetitive. You can see by the clock that it’s almost 8am. I had to start early since the weather has been hot and the sun pounds this side of the building in the morning. I started work at 6:30am. It really paid off not having to rush due to the glue curing too fast due to the cooler air. It actually gave me the confidence of being able to assemble the 8 foot long panels by myself if needed. I consider this enough work done to keep going with the project!

This roof panel was just assembled. It shows the new way I finish the end corner of a panel. The zipper was taped out of the way so it would not get glue on it.

You can barely see the 2 x 2’s behind the far roof assembly. They really make attaching two large panels much easier. On the right, I didn’t want to fold the roof assemblies in half until they had cured for at least a little while, so I borrowed my neighbors garage to stand the roof assembly upright.

The garage is getting crowded after assembling two more roof assemblies.

Here is one advantage to having K-Hinge and zipper construction. You can open the upper roof panel as a hatch and fold it down for ventilation or to watch the night stars.

Here is the lower roof panel opened for a hatch.

Here is an entire roof panel opened as a giant hatch.

Super easy loading and unloading.

A door prototype.

I’m feeling panicked that there is not enough time to get this Yurt built with all of the other stuff that needs preparation for BM. So it’s time to get organized and on the stick!!

1) Add edge wrap and zippers to 4 edges of roof panel #1.
2) Add edge wrap and zippers to #2 roof set.
3) Assemble #2 upper and lower roof sections.
4) Test zip #1 and #2 roof panels together.
5) Add K-Hinge to #2 wall/roof panels, with blue lettering facing inward.
6) Draw CAD of Yurt to figure out external K-Hinge width.
7)Create #3 wall and roof assembly by Monday.

I bought 4 more sheets of foam board and 6 more yards of canvas today. It’s making me nervous that there is only 4 weeks left and I’m building something so complicated that has never been built before. Plus the scooter needs work and so does the wagon!!!

Here is the first production zipper with canvas sewn onto each half of the zipper. This is a #10 coiled zipper. We could not get a long #10 toothed zipper fast enough. This coiled zipper is cheaper to make but looks to be strong enough for our uses. At first I ran just one row of stitches to see how strong the seams would be. They had some flex to them in tension. I added an extra row of stitches to each side of the zipper and it really didn’t make the joint any stronger. In fact it makes it a bit harder to unzip the joint due to the canvas being right up against the zipper pull. Zippers sewn into a K-Hing will only have one row of stitches on each side. I folded a 1/2 inch of the canvas under the bottom to make sure the canvas does not come unraveled with use. This also made for a nice looking seam.

Here is the zipper after it was installed and then unzipped to clean up any excess glue that might get into the zipper teeth. The glue set up fast today since it was warm in the garage. I’ll do it at night the next time. The foam weather stripping was added to see if it would compress ok and fill in the joint completely so it would be as heat and dust proof as possible. This weather stripping will probably go between each of the 6 roof sections for best insulation from heat, light and dust. The ends of each canvas joint will need to have the excess material trimmed away after the glue sets.

This is the completed roof and wall assembly with the zipper glued on. Normally the zipper won’t be glued on, but since this assembly was a prototype this is how I decided to make it a useful part of the Yurt so there is no wasted materials. It also showed me how to do a zipper repair in the future if needed. I could simply cut off the old zipper at the threads, and glue this zipper and canvas assembly over the joint. Maybe not as strong as a zipper sewn into a K-Hinge, but should hold up. We’ll find out, that’s for sure!

Here is a mock up using wood of a K-Hinge with a zipper sewn in. This is the closed position. This allows the hinged joint to be folded over on itself when unzipped or to stiffen the hinged joint when zipped together. Leaning on this prototype with many pounds of force showed that it held together well. Surely the foam board would have broken with so much stress applied to it. Since the glue and canvas are in shear during the stress test, then only the thread and zipper’s cloth are the only weak spots. You can see the one corner of canvas where I peeled it up to see how well the glue held up. The glue bond is much stronger than the bond that the aluminum foil has to the paper on the foam board.

This is the open or folded position. Leaving a couple of inches of zipper hanging off of the end, makes it easy to start the zipper when assembling the Yurt.

There is the end view of the K-Hinge and the zipper. I’ll try and sew the gap between boards a little tighter when I build the foam board versions.

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