Since the 12 x 20 shade structure went up very well, I think a larger one that is essentially flat with a little roof rise in it, will work to cover the yurt.

Adding many 20 foot long pvc pipes to the shade structure could make for great shade coverage of the Yurt and of our vehicles.

Here is Bill’s tent, my yurt and our potential shade layout for BM 2010.

The Yurt Rack is finally complete! Now I don’t need to buy a trailer and hitch for the wagon! That saved me some serious cash! It looks very solid. The side benefit is that there is a significant amount of storage space under the Yurt Rack for carrying shade structures.

These are the structural aluminum brackets that Bill gave me years ago. They sure came in handy. This bracket had to be sunken into the stud because all three brackets are not mounted in a straight line due to their placement on the roof by the factory. This mod allowed the stud to be aligned in a straight line.

The front bracket had to be sawed in half with my horizontal band saw since the 2 mounting studs were spaced much further apart from the factory. It did a great job. Don set this saw up for me years ago and it does such a nice job.

This rear bracket did not come with any slots for mounting so I just drilled a single hole. Under each bracket mount there is a 1/8″ thick reinforced rubber pad to help spread the load out on the roof.

I posted this idea here on the BM site.

I am seriously thinking about building a monkey hut to add to my yurt. It seems to me that the parachute effect of the wind getting under the hut could easily be minimized by not using one solid tarp, but a minimum of 3 tarps overlapped like very long roof shingles. So if a 20 x 10 tarp is normally used, maybe three 4 x 20 tarps stretched out length wise across the monkey hut frame, and over lapped by a foot or so. I know there are no 4 x 20 tarps, but I use that dimension to help draw the concept.

Imagine the wind blowing sideways across your camp….

1st idea: If the roof tarp goes on first, and the side tarps last, with the side tarps overlapping the roof, then air flow can exit going up through the roof from inside the hut if the edges of the sides are just a little loose. This would not allow so much lifting force. Airflow could not happen in the opposite direction so it would reduce dust ingress. But it would allow some rain to come in.

2nd idea: If the side tarps go on first, over lapped by the roof tarp, then the airflow could only move from outside the hut to the inside. I’m not sure that’s desirable. But it would keep the rain out. Hmmm. Maybe if the roof tarp was left looser with longer cords/bungees than the sides, or maybe only bungied to the end pvc loops, it would allow wind to escape by raising up some and letting the wind out. It would also keep the rain out. After thinking about it I like this idea best.

When the wind blows into the hut, it will have a route to escape through the two overlapping seams in the roof. But when wind tries to blow down onto the roof, the wind is blocked. The overlap of the 3 tarps provides a sort of one way valve for the air flow.

I thought of this because of street banners having so many crescent shaped cut outs made to allow the wind to blow through the banner, lowering the wind loading substantially. The problem with cutting crescents into a monkey hut tarp is that the wind and dust could blow into and out of the hut.

What do you think?

I’m making an entry way made from canvas to seal the door from letting in so much dust and to hold the door in a horizontal position. This will make a longer path for dust to have to travel to get into the yurt. Today I go hunting for more canvas to start this project.

The pole for this year is really nice. It will hold Camelbaks, clothes and even lighting.

One of the great benefits of going completely away from home on a trip is that my carb cravings go completely away. At Burning Man we had next to nothing for refined carbs to eat. I weighed 197lbs when I left for Burning Man. I’m now down into the 186-189 range. I never thought I’d get to under 190 like I did in the late 90’s. This same thing happened to me last year when I went to Brazil. Cravings were dead when I got back and my weight loss program was born. I’m only a dozen lbs above my high school weight of 175lbs. If I can ever get this damn thyroid under control, life should be quite sweet. It’s already vastly improved.

The wagon got 3 new coolant hoses and a radiator cap. They were toasted. The fan belt for the water pump was lose too. I put in too much coolant so now I am draining a little at a time and adding water to bring the ratio down. Then the air conditioning will get evacuated and recharged. The wiring for the trailer needs to be added and the tires need balancing.

The scooter still needs the cracked wheel changed and the 4th battery pack added. I doubt I’ll have time to add the lighting. It also needs some kind of cloth attached around the perimeter to keep the playa dust out.

Tonight I cut the front door opening in panel #3. That took some guts! Then I sewed up the zippers for the door. Some ground anchors will have to added to each side of the door to make the #3 panel more stable. All of the cutting has made it more unstable. But it has to have a front door. I went with a 6 foot tall front door.

Yesterday was the the first time the Hexayurt was assembled completely. It took maybe only 10-15 minutes. It sure felt like less. We did it in Bill’s back yard. The ladder was needed to hold the roof up initially. I thought Bill could hold it for me as I zipped the roof together. But since the walls are not hinged together as I had originally planned, they tend to float in and out freely and have to be held vertically so they keep the roof panels aligned while I zip the roof together. I could make a vertical post to temporarily hold the first couple of roof panels up. The ladder will strap onto the side of the trailer so we’ll probably just take it.

Here is the interior of the Yurt! We left one section out to be able to better photograph the insides. I purposely left all of the blue writing on the interior of the Yurt so that it would absorb as little heat as possible. You can see the black zippers on the ceiling. They are plenty strong enough in shear. The material used was just basic canvas duck. The adhesive was just Liquid Nails.

You can just seem my hand as I’m opening one of 3 roof hatches. With the door, this will be handy to ventilate the Yurt when it cools off after sunset.

I’m only a few feet in front of the Yurt. Bill’s lense makes the Yurt look a little smaller.

This was the very last roof and wall panels to be assembled. So I thought I’d get more of the process documented.

Getting ready to add glue to the lower 3 inches of the lower roof panel. Then it will be installed on the one inch K-Hinge/wall panel.

You can see that the caulking gun is loaded but low on glue. Always have a spare tube of glue is sitting by the ready. The 2 inch roll of masking tape is used to lift the upper roof panel up so that I can apply the glue without interference. I think I used about 8 28oz tubes of Liquid Nails so far.

Adding 2 inch wide masking tape to the underside of the top corner keeps glue off of it during assembly. That blue line on the lower roof panel is for the 3 inch wide glue line.

Wall with one inch K-Hinge waiting for roof panel installation.

The one inch K-Hinge ready for the roof assembly to be added.

The one inch K-Hinge ready for the roof assembly to be added.

All of the roof and wall panels are finally assembled!!!! They just need the bottom edges covered, anchors added, and side hinges glued on.

Next Page »