August 2009

The wagon got 3 new coolant hoses and a radiator cap. They were toasted. The fan belt for the water pump was lose too. I put in too much coolant so now I am draining a little at a time and adding water to bring the ratio down. Then the air conditioning will get evacuated and recharged. The wiring for the trailer needs to be added and the tires need balancing.

The scooter still needs the cracked wheel changed and the 4th battery pack added. I doubt I’ll have time to add the lighting. It also needs some kind of cloth attached around the perimeter to keep the playa dust out.

Tonight I cut the front door opening in panel #3. That took some guts! Then I sewed up the zippers for the door. Some ground anchors will have to added to each side of the door to make the #3 panel more stable. All of the cutting has made it more unstable. But it has to have a front door. I went with a 6 foot tall front door.

Yesterday was the the first time the Hexayurt was assembled completely. It took maybe only 10-15 minutes. It sure felt like less. We did it in Bill’s back yard. The ladder was needed to hold the roof up initially. I thought Bill could hold it for me as I zipped the roof together. But since the walls are not hinged together as I had originally planned, they tend to float in and out freely and have to be held vertically so they keep the roof panels aligned while I zip the roof together. I could make a vertical post to temporarily hold the first couple of roof panels up. The ladder will strap onto the side of the trailer so we’ll probably just take it.

Here is the interior of the Yurt! We left one section out to be able to better photograph the insides. I purposely left all of the blue writing on the interior of the Yurt so that it would absorb as little heat as possible. You can see the black zippers on the ceiling. They are plenty strong enough in shear. The material used was just basic canvas duck. The adhesive was just Liquid Nails.

You can just seem my hand as I’m opening one of 3 roof hatches. With the door, this will be handy to ventilate the Yurt when it cools off after sunset.

I’m only a few feet in front of the Yurt. Bill’s lense makes the Yurt look a little smaller.

Here is a CAD rendering of how everything should fit inside the Yurt. These include the scooter, table, totes, and a queen air mattress. Notice the door folding concept.

This was the very last roof and wall panels to be assembled. So I thought I’d get more of the process documented.

Getting ready to add glue to the lower 3 inches of the lower roof panel. Then it will be installed on the one inch K-Hinge/wall panel.

You can see that the caulking gun is loaded but low on glue. Always have a spare tube of glue is sitting by the ready. The 2 inch roll of masking tape is used to lift the upper roof panel up so that I can apply the glue without interference. I think I used about 8 28oz tubes of Liquid Nails so far.

Adding 2 inch wide masking tape to the underside of the top corner keeps glue off of it during assembly. That blue line on the lower roof panel is for the 3 inch wide glue line.

Wall with one inch K-Hinge waiting for roof panel installation.

The one inch K-Hinge ready for the roof assembly to be added.

The one inch K-Hinge ready for the roof assembly to be added.

All of the roof and wall panels are finally assembled!!!! They just need the bottom edges covered, anchors added, and side hinges glued on.

I made a 4th A123 pack for the scooter. It just needs to be load tested as it is already balanced.

Masking tape needs to cover the tip of the upper roof panel so glue does not get all over it when joining the wall and roof assemblies.

Here is an extended section of the K-Hinge that allows the roof panels to be hinged on the outer edge of the wall, but tilt inward. You can see there is a blue tint to the stitching. That blue is from the super fine tipped sharpie I used to draw the parallel pair of lines that are one inch apart. The lower piece of canvas is 9 inches wide versus the standard 8 inches. The upper piece of canvas is 7 inches wide compared to the standard 6 inches. The gap in the middle is 1 inch wide.

The wood block is under an inch in height. But it keeps the panels separated so that the 1 inch of hinge material between panels does not get bound up during the gluing process. I folded back and glued the 1 inch wide gap material onto itself.

Here is the height of the wood blocks.

The 7/8 inch wood blocks allow the 1 inch tall hinge material to compress and bow just a bit. This was not an issue at all during assembly.

Here is the finished roof and wall assembly with the 3 wooden blocks acting as spacers. This is the first of this type of K-Hinge that I have made. Two more panels like this need to be finished. Then all of the wall panels need to get their lower edges covered and the anchors installed.

Here is another door idea that I really like. It makes for a 4 foot or a 6 foot tall entrance, depending whether both hatches are used or not.

We had solid success setting up the roof only portion of the HexaYurt at Bill’s house.

Here is the completed roof.

This is the roof with one of 3 hatches open for ventilation.

Here I am looking out of the roof.

All of the upper and lower roof panels have been hinged together and have had the zippers added to their sides. Tomorrow we are going to see how all of the roof panels are going to zip together without the walls. It will be a good dry run. I bought several more yards of canvas and a few more 28oz tubes of Liquid Nails. There are many 8 foot long hinges to be glued to these panels in the future.

Here are the 3 pairs of roof panels with side zippers finished. It’s nice to have the R & D on this part of the structure done as the building can go much faster. The upper and lower roof panels need to be hinged together like I had done this past Monday. I’ll try and go get some more canvas to make the hinges with today.

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