Truck #2

Yesterday the #2 truck got most of the body clayed using the Groit’s Garage system. Eddie clayed, polished, and sealed my #1 truck using this same system and it came out fantastic. So now I have a much better clue as to how much work it is. I still need to get the body lines clayed, but I just ran out of steam. This was exhausting work. The paint already looks far better and it’s not even polished or sealed yet.

I’ve tried to use 3M General Purpose Cleaner for removing marks on the paint. It’s helped, but not as much as using Goof Off in a spray can. Good Off is stronger solvent but does not damage the paint.

I’ve also purchased a chip filling kit to help fill in the chips this truck has. The paint code is 5111. The name of this shade of white changes depending on the vendor. So I won’t report it here.

I spent a lot of time watching Youtube videos showing how to fill chips. Some are fast and easy. But most are geared toward average, or less, results. So I may have to invent my own process using steps from the various vendors that I watched. Deep chips need to be filled with a bit of primer if the steel was exposed. Some may even require some fine filler due to the dept of the chip.

I put an ad on Craigslist for the rear bumper, class 3 trailer hitch, and a bed mounted tool box. These are the parts I took off of both USE trucks to they could have perfectly functioning tilt beds. I wanted only $40 for all 3. But the only fellow that showed interest, did not need the other stuff. So I cut the price to $20 and he took all of it. It was all stored in the wagon. This stuff took up all of the room in the wagon. Now it’s nice and cleared out. Still there is a USE motor back there. I was just glad to get rid of it all.

Last night I finally got the blower to stop running when the selector switch was in the off position. It turns out that USE wired it in such a way that it grabbed power from an always on source. Although it appeared that I also added to the issue. The blower was tied to a 3 amp circuit for power. So when I turned the blower up to high, it popped the 3 amp fuse. Now it’s rewired straight to the heater/ac fuse and gets all the juice it needs. The 3 amp circuit is now independent and works fine. All of this also made me update my heater/ac schematic yet again. I have not looked at an air conditioned truck before so I am not sure if my wiring will match. I made this system work the way that is the most useful and makes the most sense. This truck was an early version and their ac wiring was not tested enough to find any bugs. The big thing is that the heater and ac never worked from day one according to the original owner. So I think now the system is wired correctly. Buying the factory S10 manuals used from Ebay made a huge difference in diagnosing the electrical and vacuum issues with the #2 truck!

I also bumped the regen in first gear to the maximum. The first time I tried it the truck shuddered like mad, but without faulting. The pack voltage jumped from about 330v to 380v. There is a limit to the voltage and I exceeded it. This really points out how high the pack impedance really is. This pack is shot.

When the dash gets taken apart the orange heater switch has to get pulled out. So the small panel that it is mounted to clips into the dash bezel. One of the molded in tabs snapped off. I used my standard repair of CA (CyanoAcrylate) and Kelvar strands to fix it. It may make the tabs too stiff which would require them to be shaved down a bit so they can be installed/removed easily.

I also added 2 12v batteries to the #2 truck’s pack. The pack is showing such low voltage output as the seasonal temperatures get down into the 30’s. Then the charge curve had to be increase up to 400v since there are now 27 batteries in the pack. That should get the truck around the block over the next few months. I did notice that the 592AE processor would not accept a full download of the .set file. I think it might be because the file was for a 5B5AA processor. The only real difference is in the checksums being different. So I went through manually and changed the several settings to match the nicad settings so the truck will charge higher and run on a lower pack voltage if needed.

« Previous PageNext Page »