Truck #2


Use truck #1 repair/upgrades

Check water pump brushes for wear.
Add 12v fuses to junction box.
Pull driveshaft and inspect for connector space.
Install Lithium BMS cable.
Upgrade heater to Kim Hotstart.
Top off redtop cells with water.
Order Kim Hotstart heater.
Add second set of gas struts.
Remove class 3 trailer hitch.
Repair Ready LED.

USE truck #2 repairs/upgrades

Polish paint
Remove Anderson connector and cables to pack.
Add 12v fuses to junction box.
Bad connections on Sanden box.
Add 6-32 standoff to main contactor for fan power.
Paint roll pan.
LRR tires.
Synthetic fluids for trans and rear end.
Zero toe alignment.
1998 S10 front air dam.
Battery box holes need helicoils.
Repair dash button cover.
Vacuum leak when in heat or vent positions (Bad vacuum switch).
Bad connection in Emeter circuit.
Incorrect heater wiring.
Blower never turns off.
Buy Factory shop manuals.
Charge Complete and fault lights burned out.
AC Not pumping freon.
Fan switch bad.
Cup holder damaged.
Grille Emblem missing.
Bed: Add tilt bed hardware.
Add gas struts to bed.
Add 2nd pair of gas struts to bed.
Heater: Pump ok, no heat. Replaced with Hotstart.
Remove rear Bumper.
Remove tool box.
Install Dolphin fuse holder.
Get 1 amp fuse for fuse holder.
Knife switch for aux battery.
Missing Antenna.
Install Fuel Door outlet.
Fuel door box.
Find rear valence (roll pan).

This truck just had a female connector hanging down low to plug into. But being that it was a female connector, try to imagine what the extension cord would look like. Hmmm. A male connector on each end....

This truck just had a female connector hanging down low to plug into. But being that it was a female connector, try to imagine what the extension cord would look like. Hmmm. A male connector on each end....

I hunted all over town for a piece of flat black plastic to make the ring adapter for attaching the outlet to the fuel door box. This oil drain pan was a good choice. I cut 4 ring adapters out of it just to have spares. I was able to easily CNC these parts out due to a an add on piece of software that I bought with my CNC software, Mach3. This add on made it so I could specify the triangle bolt pattern and the other features machined into the ring adapter with great ease.

I hunted all over town for a piece of flat black plastic to make the ring adapter for attaching the outlet to the fuel door box. This oil drain pan was a good choice. I cut 4 ring adapters out of it just to have spares. I was able to easily CNC these parts out due to a an add on piece of software that I bought with my CNC software, Mach3. This add on made it so I could specify the triangle bolt pattern and the other features machined into the ring adapter with great ease.

That large black plastic part is the fuel door box that was missing from the #2 truck. So I ordered it and many other parts from a local GM dealer. Also shown is the outlet and the CNC'd ring adapter.

That large black plastic part is the fuel door box that was missing from the #2 truck. So I ordered it and many other parts from a local GM dealer. Also shown is the outlet and the CNC'd ring adapter.

Here is the finished outlet install. All nice black parts. Even the screw heads are black. I was in a black out mood last night. The ring adapter is a bit too flexible, so it will get a second ring adapter to stiffen it up a bit.

Here is the finished outlet install. All nice black parts. Even the screw heads are black. I was in a black out mood last night. The ring adapter is a bit too flexible, so it will get a second ring adapter to stiffen it up a bit.

The precharge relay in the USE vehicles is not durable enough to keep charging the capacitors from zero volts to 312vdc nominal, then taking them back down to zero volts. This precharge board is from a 65kw USE system. The goal is to duplicate the circuit and install it in both trucks as is it not available anywhere on the planet. This could seriously increase the precharge circuit reliability. I noticed years ago that there are a couple of tapped holes on the floor of the Dolphin. I wonder if holes 5 and 6 on this board match that hole pattern on the floor of the Dolphin?

Precharge board.

Precharge board.

The second set of gas struts were installed today. The first 12″ of
bed lift is a bit easier, and that helps my back. But above 12″ the
bed lifts itself without my help very quickly. I used a 150 psi and a
130 psi strut on each side. With that much pressure on each side the
bracket had to be mounted a bit better. I also made new 1/4″ thick
brackets that moved the struts in right next to the frame for maximum
tire clearance.

The drivers side guide pin is no longer mounted. The weld nut that it
was screwed into got punched out as I let the bed drop the last 12″
too fast. I’m not sure if I’ll try and rework it since the bed feels
like it will hold itself down fairly easily with just it’s own weight.
I still like the guide pin idea as it keeps the bed more stable. I
will revisit this task after I get other stuff done first..

Lower strut is the additional 130psi unit.

Lower strut is the additional 130psi unit.

A longer bracket had to be machined to keep the struts away from the tires.

A longer bracket had to be machined to keep the struts away from the tires.

Strut mounts on Frame. Frame was tapped and nyloc nuts added..

Strut mounts on Frame. Frame was tapped and nyloc nuts added.

Take a look at the charger board. It has a 13 pin connector on it with
a harness that leads to the connector at the back-center of the main
board. Notice the pattern of the wires in the charger connector.
(1)–(4)–(7)(8)-(10)(11)(12)(13). The dashes are empty. Start
counting from the position that is closest to the front of the truck.
Add 1 amp, 250vac fuses to positions 1, 4. Then add 1/4 amp (any
voltage)fuses to positions 7, 8. One and four is the AC voltage going
to the main board. Seven and eight is the pwm that goes from the main
board to the charger.

The last 1 amp fuse goes to terminal #19 in the junction box. If you
look at the schematic you can see which side to add the fuses to. Some
say the side with the tiny gauge wire. But when I do mine I will be
adding it to the side with the pair of large gauge wires. One wire of
the pair comes from the 12v aux battery, the other wire goes off to
the Magnecharger.

A couple of mornings ago, it was 50F outside. The #2 truck has been
outside all night and everything about it was cold soaked. So I fired
up the Hotstart heater. The air temp through the vents or the
defroster went from 50F to 100F in about 2 minutes. I only had the
radio clock to judge by. From 100F and higher it warmed up more
slowly. I’ll use a timer and wait for colder weather for another test.
This time the Hotstart did not open the circuit due to hitting the
over temp threshold.

A 50 degree delta in 2 minutes is a great improvement in heater
performance versus stock. At least it feels that way. I will also get
the data from the #1 truck’s heater so they can be compared side by side.

Finally! Got the 150 psi gas struts installed.

Here are the pics.

Now the bed is finally hinged!! Also found the last two bed bolts
holding the thing down. I’m slowly working the bed upwards so I can
get the gas struts installed. I’ve got it up about 12″ now. That
toolbox seems a bit heavy.

Here are the new hinges pics for the #2 truck.

This Heim joint system not only tilts the bed, it moves the bed rearward away from the cab to keep the bed from hitting the cab.

This Heim joint system not only tilts the bed, it moves the bed rearward away from the cab to keep the bed from hitting the cab.

Here is my #1 trucks hinge system.

Here is my #1 truck's hinge system.

It’s also important that the brown lead coming directly off of the
heater pump motor be the one that is grounded. This pump won’t work spinning
backwards. The wiring that goes to the pump are different colors.

Here are 3 full res pics of the converted heater box using the Kim
Hotstart heater. I’ve added Molex connectors to each item in the box
as it makes checking them vastly easier. The first pic is a bit
deceiving as the original red Rusco heater is quite a bit smaller in
diameter.

Don’t ever forget to verify that the pump is primed and actually
moving water!!!!

Red can is the original style Rusco heater.

Red can is the original style Rusco heater.

Pump and Hostart closeup. Note simple bracket to hold Hotstart in place.

Pump and Hostart closeup. Note simple bracket to hold Hotstart in place.

Complete view of heater box with Hotstart heater and pump.

Complete view of heater box with Hotstart heater and pump.

Hotstart label.

Hotstart label.

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