1994 US Electricar Repair Blog by Mike

If you have not noticed or heard, I’ve opened the US Electricar.net store for USE owners so they can get repairs and parts to keep their vehicles running. There are links on this blog to take you there. Enjoy!

The 10 tooth L series pulley and belt arrived from McMaster today. The pulley had to be bored out from 3/8″ ID to 5/8″ ID to fit the Z axis motor. Now the motor has much more torque against the quill. I turned up the speed a bit and it still moves very quickly even though the ratio is much steeper. It also helps the Z axis gain some more accuracy.

The new quill cover for the Bridgeport that I got from Don is now installed. I oiled it up nicely and the quill moves well up and down it’s full range of motion now.

Seriously. It’s freakin’ solved after 4 years of research….

One of the boards that arrived for repair last week, was by far the worst I’ve
ever seen for dropouts, and it flashed the fault indicator in a very radical
fashion. It is now perfectly drivable!! No dropouts under acceleration or regen!
I was in total disbelief!! It works? Must be a mistake!! So I grabbed the second
board in for repair. Dropped out every 15-20 seconds. Made the same
modifications to it. Now it’s smooth as glass too! Zero dropouts under
acceleration or regen!! I had a third board laying around for years who’s only
crime was having massive repetitive dropouts. The modifications completely
stopped all traces of dropouts on it too. All 3 of these boards drive perfectly
now! Am I dreaming!!?? Feels like the Twilight Zone around here!!

Three boards saved from the junk pile. I have seen many more just like them.
That feels so good!! Many owners have this problem right now.

The Dolphin hardware has component values that are just barely within spec. With
miles of driving, time, and thermal cycles, the hardware goes out of spec, and
the Dolphin starts faulting, usually without any faults shown in Dolcom/Dol7.
I’ve posted this in the past. But the faults are felt as a sudden shudder in the
drive train. An instant loss and then instant return of power lasting only a
split second. It can rattle your fillings loose!! Some do it rapid fire, one
dropout after another. It’s all the same problem with the hardware going out of
spec. I found the faulty hardware!! Finally!!

During this research, I found an old quality control document from USE. It was a
long list of things that needed to be checked on their test fixture after each
board was assembled. The items on that list were very telling. So I have figured
out the procedure for checking most of the items on that list on my test
fixture. This ensures that the board gets thoroughly checked. I use it on every
board, just like the factory did.

Since it’s still very cold over most of the country, now is the best time to
have the offending boards with dropout issues repaired. The cold always makes
the dropouts worse. It’s the best season to ensure that the boards work in the
worst conditions of the year. Dropouts are less common in the warm months.

Send me your board and I’ll make the classic dropout modification and put your
board through the checkout list on my test fixture for $50 + shipping. Pack your
board very carefully, like it was your first born baby.

Mike

Use truck #1 repair/upgrades

Check water pump brushes for wear.
Add 12v fuses to junction box.
Pull driveshaft and inspect for connector space.
Install Lithium BMS cable.
Upgrade heater to Kim Hotstart.
Top off redtop cells with water.
Order Kim Hotstart heater.
Add second set of gas struts.
Remove class 3 trailer hitch.
Repair Ready LED.

USE truck #2 repairs/upgrades

Polish paint
Remove Anderson connector and cables to pack.
Add 12v fuses to junction box.
Bad connections on Sanden box.
Add 6-32 standoff to main contactor for fan power.
Paint roll pan.
LRR tires.
Synthetic fluids for trans and rear end.
Zero toe alignment.
1998 S10 front air dam.
Battery box holes need helicoils.
Repair dash button cover.
Vacuum leak when in heat or vent positions (Bad vacuum switch).
Bad connection in Emeter circuit.
Incorrect heater wiring.
Blower never turns off.
Buy Factory shop manuals.
Charge Complete and fault lights burned out.
AC Not pumping freon.
Fan switch bad.
Cup holder damaged.
Grille Emblem missing.
Bed: Add tilt bed hardware.
Add gas struts to bed.
Add 2nd pair of gas struts to bed.
Heater: Pump ok, no heat. Replaced with Hotstart.
Remove rear Bumper.
Remove tool box.
Install Dolphin fuse holder.
Get 1 amp fuse for fuse holder.
Knife switch for aux battery.
Missing Antenna.
Install Fuel Door outlet.
Fuel door box.
Find rear valence (roll pan).