January 2009

This past weekend I jacked the #1 truck up to determine if I could get another water tight connector mounted into the front of the battery box. It looks like my only option is to remove the 1/2″ connector that is there for the Emeter cable and install a larger one. This would still be a tight fit to install. I may consider just adding lithium to the #2 truck, but it does not have a good pack in it yet. I have seen other trucks with a hole drilled and filled with silicone. Not an appealing solution.

Yesterday the #2 truck got most of the body clayed using the Groit’s Garage system. Eddie clayed, polished, and sealed my #1 truck using this same system and it came out fantastic. So now I have a much better clue as to how much work it is. I still need to get the body lines clayed, but I just ran out of steam. This was exhausting work. The paint already looks far better and it’s not even polished or sealed yet.

I’ve tried to use 3M General Purpose Cleaner for removing marks on the paint. It’s helped, but not as much as using Goof Off in a spray can. Good Off is stronger solvent but does not damage the paint.

I’ve also purchased a chip filling kit to help fill in the chips this truck has. The paint code is 5111. The name of this shade of white changes depending on the vendor. So I won’t report it here.

I spent a lot of time watching Youtube videos showing how to fill chips. Some are fast and easy. But most are geared toward average, or less, results. So I may have to invent my own process using steps from the various vendors that I watched. Deep chips need to be filled with a bit of primer if the steel was exposed. Some may even require some fine filler due to the dept of the chip.

Tom and his son bought the spare USE S10 battery box from me some time ago and installed it in their ’84 S10. At Saturday’s SJEAA meeting, I asked for input on how to get a BMS data cable into the #1 trucks’ battery box while keeping it water tight. Tom knew the answer because he knew the battery box better than I did. By removing the drive shaft, the wall of the box that holds the watertight connectors, is exposed clearly from under the truck. That way I can see if how hard it would be to drill a hole and add another watertight connector. The hole would need to be something like 5/8″ to 3/4″ in diameter. Someone talked me into using the water tight connectors that don’t need a threaded hole to be mounted. That translates into less work in a tight space under the truck. Thanks Tom!

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