Today on the way onto the freeway, I hear a clanging as though something were falling out of the engine compartment. I looked back into my rear view mirror and found that there was something bouncing onto the road surface. I had to drive a couple of miles to get back onto the freeway entrance again. But there was the distinctive alternator pivot bolt in the middle of the road. I grabbed it and sure enough mine was missing. I had thought that maybe it was a wrench or socket that I had left under the hood. I carefully drove home and reinstalled it. Whew! Glad nothing else bad happened. I still need to look closely to make sure the bolt did not crack or damage the timing cover.

The AC was evacuated and a couple of ounces of oil were added. Then the R12 was added. The ac temps are great. After an 83 mile run nearly to SF, the car didn’t leak a drop. So tomorrow we head off for a long road trip to do some water skiing. That will test the AC and the radiator since it’s fairly hot there. The rear brakes feel like they could be adjusted a little.

The air conditioning has never worked since I got this wagon. I bought a TIF ZX-1 freon sniffer to find the leaks. The ZX-1 has had poor reliability. Two of them failed right out of the box. But it is very sensitive to freon leaks.

Here are some pinhole leaks on the condensor that the ZX-1 found. There were something like 6 of them along the top tube.

Engine compartment stripped.

The original condensor and all brass radiator. Both were replaced with brand new parts.

The knobs for my R12 gauge set cracked. So I did my standard carbon fiber and CA (superglue) repair.

Brand new condensor from MKO auto. $120.

The new all aluminum tig welded radiator.

Five 8mm socket head screws were removed to take the front section off of the compressor.

Here is the pulley, clutch and coil removed from the A/C compressor. Just a pair of snap ring pliers and a 10mm socket got these parts off. No puller required.

Fans on the new all aluminum tig welded radiator.

Here are the valves.

Removing the valve plate was easy with a flat bladed screw driver. There is the carbon shaft seal that needs replacing.

…And it’s snap ring.

Here is the new seal kit.

I’m trying to show the alignment pins are both offset to one side of the shaft. This makes it easier to get the plates back in place correctly.

The old carbon shaft seal on the left and the new one on the right.

I just used a large socket to push the new seal in. Contact should only be made around the perimeter of the seal so it’s not damaged.

The new seal and new snap ring.

From the top down. The old felt washer. Brass retainer. New felt washer.

The new felt washer installed. It fits snugly. Make sure it’s wet with refrigerant oil.

Gently and straight pushing the felt seal and brass retainer back in to position. I pushed it down to an exact dept of .XXX”. Originally it was at .XXX” deep.

See how the alignment pins are both offset to one side of the shaft?

The splines are very sharp on the ends.

This is 2″ wide packing tape being used to cover the splines to keep the carbon seal from being dinged up as it’s installed. This failed since it would not start into the seal.

The version worked. The ends were sliced with an exacto knife. Plus the tape did not extend down to the smooth part of the shaft. It only covered the splines.

Using a 1/4″ drive 3/8″ diameter socket, I gently increased the diameter of the carbon seal so it would fit more easily onto the shaft.

Needle nose pliers pulled the packing tape spline cover of with no problem.

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