1) Let the car cool off over night. It also allows the fuel pressure to drop in the fuel rail so less is spewed all over the engine during disassembly.
2) Loosen or remove your gas cap.
3) Remove return fuel line and vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator, on the end of the fuel rail.
4) Pull the PCV valve and hose out of the valve cover.
5) Remove the 3 bolts from the FITV valve. This allows room so that the fuel pressure regulator can be removed with the fuel rail.
6) Remove the two bolts with a 10mm socket that holds the fuel injector wiring harness to the fuel rail. Then remove the 3 nuts that hold the fuel rail to the intake manifold. Remove the IACV electrical connector. Leave the wiring harness in place, but pull it out of the way a little, and lift out the fuel rail. Carefully lay the fuel rail over to one side so it’s out of the way. Watch out for the ends of the injectors!

7) Remove the 2 bolts with a 12mm socket that hold the IACV in place. Leave the coolant hoses attached to both IACV and FITV.

8)Gently pull both valves out of position and use something like bailing wire to hold them out of the way. This gives needed clearance for the removal and installation of the port plugs.

9) Now it’s time to start removing the egr port plugs. Mine were aluminum. Some are brass. Both are easy to drill out. Make sure you have several drill bits available. Getting the hole the right size is important so that the screw from the slide hammer goes in snug but not so tight that you snap the head off. See my note above regarding which size of slide hammer to use for egr plug removal.

10) The egr port itself is just a hole in the bottom of each passage. Getting every spec of carbon out is just not neccessary. This car had 207,000 miles and the ports were still only half plugged. This pic shows one of them cleaned out and ready for new plugs. A piece of bailing wire with the 3/8″ long end bent 90 degrees, worked great to clear out the carbon buildup above and below the small hole. Bailing wire used between egr ports worked well too. A drill bit twisted by hand worked great for cleaning the carbon out of the small hole itself.

Using the 3/8″ outside diameter hose duct taped to my vacuum, worked great as removing the carbon deposits knocked loose with the bailing wire. This tube reached the aluminum shavings that found their way onto the top of the intake manifold.

Have your EGR port plugs and egr valve gasket ready to go.

I found that taking this old bolt and making a shoulder on it to fit the egr plug, held the plug in place much better when the hammer hit the bolt. I found that using a 3-5 lb sledge hammer gently, gave me better install control than a regular 1lb claw hammer with lots of muscle. The first couple of tries without this tool sent a couple of plugs flying.

The egr plugs I got from Honda were in fact steel. This is a parts magnet holding itself and a plug against a steel beam in my garage.