Here are the things I tested this morning to try and get the alternator running consistently.

Here in this thread, post #5, a fellow mentions that this ground screw should be checked. Mine was ok. I did scotch brite the ring lugs as there was rust on the lowest one. This didn’t help.

Here is this thread, also post #5, that explains how to test the 3 wires on the crankshaft position sensor (cps) located over the vibration damper. I used my scope. It showed a consistent but very narrow pulse. The voltage lead was at 9v. Ground was ok too. This didn’t help.

Here is this thread, post #12, that a guy explains how there is a relay involved with the charging being turned on and off. I did find that the front and rear relays on the inner driver’s side fender, were 4 pins. 2 of the pins were at about 90 ohms. They clicked fine when 12v was applied. These 2 pins were also very clean. The pins that were for the load, were very oxidized. Almost burnt looking on the other pair of pins. As it turned out, all 3 relays had oxidized pins on the 2 load pins. So I used a #11 Exacto knife to scrape the crud off. I could not get anything else in there. After cleaning the 2 load pins on each of the 3 relays, I did swap the font and rear relays per the post. So far after about 4 starts, the alternator is still working. Although I will wait to see how it does when it’s stone cold in the mornings.

Here is a partial charging system schematic that I never used, but found to be a good reference.